As faithful Arkansas Blog readers know, last week we unveiled a new epicurean edition to our online offerings. Eat Arkansas is a regular helping of a subject that we’ve long wanted to explore more deeply. Everything food-related is potential fodder on the blog, including quick reviews, news and recipes.
So far, we’ve welcomed contributions from in-house and within the community. Chris Clement, the former editor of Little Rock Monthly, has posted, writing about arepas (South American corn cakes) and the Arkansas connection to the cookbook phenoms the Lee Brothers (one lived in Arkansas while working on the Clinton campaign); and a contributor who calls himself BellyBoy has been downright prolific, working up entries on out-of-the-way spots like Uncle T’s Food Mart, Mercado San Jose and Sports and Beyond (the best brisket in town, he says).
He also brought us the news that venerable North Little Rock steakhouse Sir Loin’s Inn has closed. The inn, we always thought, would’ve made a great locale for a David Lynch film. It was hands down the best steakhouse in town where grown men wearing pageboy outfits and tennis shoes served you.
Update: BORDINOS What the heck happened here? This restaurant, which you can usually count on for a special night out, was really off when we ate here recently. We had high hopes for our toasted pine nut and three mushroom tart, but it was just a shrug of a go-before.
The crab cakes were overcooked, the salads were overdressed (with walnut oil?), the risotto and shrimp entrée oozed over the plate like a lava spill (on the advice of the waiter, we omitted the calamari that is to come with the dish, but that might have added a little oomph, now that we think about it).
We were comped on the tiramisu, which arrived with wet feet — the ladyfingers were soggy as ladyfingers can be before they turn into ladypuddles.
The waiter was absolutely charming, we’ll have to say, and the décor, which uses Kathy Thompson’s wonderful glass box sconces filled with various objects (like stacked teacups), can’t be beat.
It occurs to us that the bread pudding was quite good; go get a glass of wine, a little pudding and insist on sitting in the main dining room so you can see Thompson’s work. 324 W. Dickson St. Full bar. CC $$-$$$ 479-527-6795 D Mon.-Sat.