Dining » Dining Review

Little change with Cheers

Broadway version still is thorough with the lunch offerings.

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LASAGNA SPECIAL: One of several.
  • LASAGNA SPECIAL: One of several.

Cheers on Broadway — independent of the versions situated in the Heights and Maumelle — has been under new ownership since last summer, but on the surface, not much has changed. The menu and decor are the same; but we couldn’t help but notice the distinct lack of competition for tables when we visited on a recent Friday.

Which we mention less as a reflection on the quality of the food — overall not bad — than as context for the service issues we encountered.

First, though, the food. Cheers’ menu covers the lunch terrain pretty thoroughly: sandwiches, big salads, plate lunches, burgers, soup. Our party of three skipped appetizers and went straight for the big stuff. Two of us ordered from the daily special board: a turkey croissant sandwich and the chicken and dumplings.

The sandwich sparked little reaction — it was fine, our companion said, but nothing exciting, about the same as you’d get if you got a tray of sandwiches from the grocery store. (We personally say it takes a lot to make a turkey sandwich exciting, though.) She did like the large bowl of fruit she ordered on the side, which included kiwi.

The chicken and dumplings got a much better response. Our companion said it was just what chicken and dumplings should be — the right proportion of meat to dough, done nicely, and with a tasty helping of green beans on the side.

As for ourselves, we ordered a cheeseburger with grilled onions, and a side of onion rings. The onion rings were big and crunchy and properly heartburn-inducing, and we enjoyed them more than was wise.

But the burger was flat and not particularly flavorful, and came with so few grilled onions that at first we thought there weren’t any at all. They were just hiding, very well, beneath the lettuce.

More of a problem, though, was that the cheeseburger came with no cheese — and that our waiter’s solution was to offer to simply bring us a slice of cheese to put on it. We were taken aback enough that we didn’t argue, and a few minutes later we got a slice of American cheese, still between the papers, and straight from the refrigerator. Cold cheese does not a pleasant cheeseburger make. And given how far from crowded the restaurant was, an overworked chef could not be given as an excuse.

Service in general was a problem during our visit. Our food took what seemed like a very long time to arrive — especially, again, given that there were maybe four tables occupied while we were there — and our drinks were not refilled throughout our visit. Our server also disappeared when it was time to pay the check.

Cheers on Broadway

401 W. Capitol Ave.
372-5494

Quick bite
The chicken and dumplings don’t disappoint, and the onion rings are delicious.

Hours
7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. weekdays.

Other information
Moderate prices. Credit cards accepted. Full bar.

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