Pieday: Cherry Crisp at Goodson's on Towson | Rock Candy

Pieday: Cherry Crisp at Goodson's on Towson



SWEET-TART:  Cherry crisp at Goodsons on Towson.
  • Grav Weldon
  • SWEET-TART: Cherry crisp at Goodson's on Towson.
I knew I needed to go to Goodson’s to get myself some pie at some point during my research. Been a few times with friends — never taken photos inside the place, though. So imagine my surprise and disappointment when we pulled up to Goodson’s — and it was gone.

No joke, Goodson’s on Cornerstone was a thing of the past. There’s another restaurant there serving up pie called The Pumpkin Patch, but I just wasn’t interested. Main reason for that? Well, I knew there was another Goodson’s. It was over on the back side of town near the Oklahoma State Line… on Towson. So off we went.

I was nervous we’d get there and it’d be gone too. Thank goodness, that’s not the case. Though it’s not quite as attractive on the outside as the other restaurant, you walk in and there’s the same family-friendly feel as the old place.

We normally would be there for some vittles or some shrimp, but this particular trip we were on a mission. The mission: pie, and choosing just one to talk about for this project was going to be problematic. After all, there were more than a dozen different pies in the case,

ranging from lemon and coconut and chocolate meringues to apple and cherry fruit pies to a marvelous peanut butter Reece’s style pie. There was Key Lime and strawberry and peach.

It took a good 15 minutes to narrow down our choices to two. Even then, it was almost impossible to make a decision. After all, there’s the chocolate pie, alternately called Chocolate Heaven or Chocolate Pile or whatever anyone else decides to call it. This thing is chocolate. It starts from the bottom crust — not a graham cracker crust, not an Oreo crust but I kid you not a chocolate chip cookie crust. The custard is rich and slightly bittersweet. There are chocolate chips and flakes throughout. The cream on top is also flaked with chocolate, and there’s a chocolate Hershey’s Kiss on each slice. It’s chocolate and chocolate and chocolate and just about anywhere else it’d be the hands-down choice.

But then there’s the Cherry Crisp, and it… it’s so good that I busted my pie-time with it. See, to get in all these pies and not turn into a blimp, I’ve practiced the art of pie-sharing. Whoever my traveling companion at the time might happen to be, we share a few bites of each pie. The remainder goes into a box, where usually the hubster consumes the remnants when they appear in our home fridge (a benefit to being the husband of a food writer, no doubt).

Not this time. I was overwhelmed, not just with the deliciously rich but not too sweet cream filling but with the hand-pressed homemade Pecan Sandy crust. The crust was still somewhat crisp and the nutty bits offered great contrast to the impossibly smooth custard. The tart gelatinous cherry topping played perfectly with everything else. It was so good… I only allowed my traveling companion a bite… and ate the rest myself. No pie for the hubster. I’m so mean.

So, what’s the deal with Goodson’s? Well, turns out the folks that had run the two locations for years sold them off when they started their Goody’s Frozen Yogurt, so I hear it. The Pumpkin Patch folks have their place now. Goodson’s on Towson, meanwhile, is run by the same folks who own and run Ed Walker’s down the way.

You want to visit? If you’re not familiar with the town and are coming in from elsewhere, best way to get there is to take I-540 to Zero Street, go west and then go with the curve when it curves onto Towson. It’s a few blocks down on the right. (479) 649-6300.

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