Burger joint of the week: 302 on the Square | Rock Candy

Burger joint of the week: 302 on the Square



BAKED BURGER:  Wills Monster Burger at 302 on the Square
  • Kat Robinson
  • BAKED BURGER: Will's Monster Burger at 302 on the Square
We’ve talked about this place before, this restoration going on at the Grand View Hotel in Berryville. And I won’t do a lot of rehashing. There’s just something you need to know about. 302 on the Square is doing a burger no one else is making. They’re baking their beef.

I’m not kidding.

Dropped in earlier this summer for a bite to eat during the Berryville Ice Cream Social. It was early in the evening and the dinner rush wasn’t in yet. We were hoping to catch the hootenanny they have there every night, but once again we were foiled; the hootenanny was moved out to the square for the evening. One of these days…

Now, mind you, I actually ordered the Louisiana Chicken and Gravy over rice… I’d been dreaming about it, and I knew I could not go wrong. Nor did I go wrong this time. It was perfect as always.

But my traveling companion had decided to go with another choice from the eclectic menu. He decided he wanted to try the Will’s Monster Burger ($7.50, a dollar less without the bacon), and of course that meant I was going to be trying it, too.

Not that there wasn’t enough to share. The burger is two quarter pound patties of prime ground beef, spiced lightly with a Cavender’s style seasoning, Cheddar cheese melted on the top, sesame seeded bun and the fixings, mustard-based condiment structure. What makes it unusual is the cooking manner.

See, 302 on the Square doesn’t have a griddle or grill. They’re cooking up everything on a cook top and in an oven… actually that’s pretty amazing, considering what they put out. The baking gives the burger a different texture — less of a crust on the outside but more of a steak-y flavor within. It’s more pliant, less grainy, more even than other burgers.

So, if you go to the restaurant and get a burger, do yourself a favor. A short while from now — hell, it may be gone now, I don’t know — there’s this seasonal dish I love. It’s strawberries and cream, done the right way, served over a salty golden biscuit. Real cream. Real fresh strawberries. It’s one of the most honest and delicious desserts I have ever had and I couldn’t recommend it higher.

You’ll find 302 on the Square on the Berryville Square downtown. (870) 654-3952.

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