by Kat Robinson
I assumed that since it was a bar serving those 21 and above that it must allow smoking. It does not. Which is good news for a lot of burger fans who dare not enter a smoking establishment… because the Pump Burger is something else.
I had sat down at the bar because I figured with limited table seating it’d just be polite to let larger groups have a seat together. There were several people at the bar, and they all seemed to know each other, a bunch of regular guys coming in to shoot the bull over lunch and brew. There were older fellows and younger ones, a couple of ladies and such who filtered through while I was there.
The chips caught my attention immediately. They were very thick. They were also very, very good — warm and salty but not overwhelmingly so. Salt might have been the only spice on them but I believe the potatoes were Yukon Gold or the like with that nice yellow-tater flavor all their own. Better than most French fries I’ve had. Good stuff.
There was a leaf of lettuce under there, some pickles and a couple of very large white onion ringlets — that were just a little too big around to properly fit on the burger.
So I assembled my burger and bit into it. And I was very happy… and a little confused. The restaurant brags about its perfectly seasoned beef — it’s perfectly seasoned in that there’s very little seasoning at all in the meat. It’s good high quality beef with a nice robust flavor to it. The saltiness of the burger comes mainly from the black olives and, to a lesser extent, the cheeses. The sauce gives the whole shebang just enough of a kick to have you reaching for your beverage.
It’s a damp burger. That bottom bun was soaked before I could finish it. It’s juicy. It’s meaty. It’s… well, the Pump Burger is everything it claims to be. I’m a convert.
You’ll find The Town Pump at 1321 Rebsamen Park Road, a block off Cantrell. It’s open 11 a.m. - 2 a.m. seven days a week. They have PBR for a buck as a special sometimes… if that matters to you. I’ll stick to my tea. (501) 663-9802 or check out the Facebook fan page.