by Kat Robinson
Day three of Breakfast Week here at Eat Arkansas. When I asked readers who subscribe to my Facebook fan page where they go for breakfast, this place was tops. I’d heard a lot about it and had to go.
And that’s how I ended up at Kierre’s Kountry Kitchen on a Thursday morning. I was surprised that it didn’t have the exterior of what I’d consider to be a traditional country dining restaurant. It’s in a non-descript metal building, and thank goodness for signage.
There aren’t any windows inside, either, just light from the overhead fluorescents and the glow from the windowed door in the vestibule. It’s cavernous inside, with a drink station plunked right through the middle. It doesn’t look like much, honestly. But the food? Well now.
The menu boasts a good number of breakfast items. There’s several arrangements involving biscuits such as biscuits and gravy, sausage and biscuit, bacon and biscuit. Several egg preparations. Pancakes. French Toast. The 2x4, two slices of bacon, two pieces of sausage, two eggs and two pancakes.
I went for a traditional cheese omelet. There’s something to be said for simplicity.
Whole time I was there a chattering of people were around me. There were what I assumed to be a bunch of regulars close to the vestibule. On the other side of the drink station where I was seated there was a family of three - a couple and their young daughter. An elderly couple came over and sat at the table next to me. It’s comfortable. There may be no frills, but that’s not what most of us are looking for in breakfast anyhow.
Out came my breakfast plate. The omelet, unlike so many I’ve had lately, was envelope shaped, a huge flat rectangle that took up a good portion of the plate. The cheese was Cheddar, and that’s what it came down to -- nothing but Cheddar cheese and eggs and it was fine and great. The toast was margarine-soaked wedges stacked partly on the pile of hash browns, great with some strawberry jam from the dispenser.
And those hash browns… let me tell you what. I’ve had more than my share of hash browns lately but these… these were light and fluffy, almost impossibly so. They were nicely salted and peppered and didn’t really require any ketchup, they were just a great contrast balance to everything. I could eat a bowl of them right now.
I noticed that there’s a specials board up on the wall there, and special one-page printouts on each table talking about said weekly specials. Things like fried porchops and meatloaf and other lunch entrees. Unlike a lot of the other breakfast places I’ve been to while doing research for this piece, Kierre’s Kountry Kitchen does dinner, too. I’m going to have to go back.
If you’re curious about those specials or want to see the menu for yourself, there’s a website. Kierre’s Kountry Kitchen is open 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and til 2 p.m. Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday. And they take call-in orders. (501) 758-0903. You'll find it on Collins Industrial Road -- take Counts Massie north off Maumelle Boulevard and go up roughly a block and turn left. It'll be on the left.