by Max Brantley
I've been hearing good things after not quite a week on the new restaurant the Goldens have opened as an addition to their Terry's Finer Foods, the carriage trade grocery on Kavanaugh in the Heights. (Fast becoming less grocery and more fancy food shop.) This review comes from a curmudgeonly friend who eats out a lot::
Tried the new little restaurant connected to "Food For More" on Kavanaugh last night. My verdict: Pricey for LR, but very good. Patrick Herron's the chef. Pretty "country French" table settings, water glasses, etc. There's a small bar. Most of the tables are elbow to elbow, by the way, like those at So and Prego, so expect no privacy in conversations when they're full.
We both had fish: My friend had the special (sole meuniere) and I had a nice hunk of very good salmon with no sauce, just perfectly cooked. Side of asparagus or sauteed spinach; roasted potatoes and a couple of other veggies were also available. Good gruyere French onion soup, I'm told, but it sounded too filling so I passed. My friend lapped his up. They also have roast chicken, 1/4 or 1/2, on the menu, and there are several steaks. Did I mention that some of the items are very pricey?
For dessert we split a nice tarte tatin (upside down apple tart) with a dab of creme fraishe. I knew they'd have it on the menu. I first had it at Chattie's, their little restaurant that was the predecessor of Prego, and remembered how much they always liked for people to try it. Some other tasty-sounding French dessert choices as well as Arkansas strawberries.
Best to dine early right now, as the lemmings have found it. No trouble getting a table at 6:15, but I had to assure them we'd be finished before 8; they were booked solid from 8 on (Saturday night). For reservations, you have to call Terry's Market and they'll connect you to the restaurant; number in phone book. Not sure, but they may be closed on Monday nights.
A Hillcrest neighbor chimes in with a review:
1- EVERYTHING is extra. Sauces good, small portions and pricy. Sides small and pricy. Menu pricing is worth rethinking/restructuring. Acadia has done well by very strategic pricing
2- Nice room, pleasant and comfortable, decent acoustics, a bit of work and acoustics could improve.
3- Attentive staff, needed some training, esp wines, 'the burgundy red is a 'rouge'. Parking great.
4- Wine list is pricy, esp if they want folks to dine there more than special occasions.The Burgundy red 'rouge' was thin. The house wine was even thinner.
5-Mr Golden, Patrick, et al are on the right track, n we will stick w/ them through the settling in
6- Terry's is a jewel, and Golden has improved it