by Kat Robinson
Buffalo Grill has been a staple around these parts for ages (since 1981 for the original Riverdale location and since 1988 over on Bowman Road). But there seems to be a particular issue with the restaurant, something that any 21 year old would be pressed to answer… “what do you really want to be when you grow up?”
At 21 (and 28), is Buffalo Grill a burger joint, a soup-salad-sandwich place, TexMex, what?
This might be calling it too early. After all, there’s no chance of either restaurant going under. Those mounds of generous French fries alone should ensure that. The dinner salads (with their inexplicably complete dousing of bacon) are ample, and there’s enough variety on the menu for almost everyone to be happy.
But, take for instance, the most recent order of Tortilla Flats ($8.19) I picked up. Used to be, this mound of ever-increasing nacholand joy was topped with a sharp layer of Cheddar cheese melted lovingly under a broiler. No more. Now its chili, black olives, lettuce, onions, tomatoes, jalapenos and chips are covered in cheese dip. Mind you, it’s not a bad cheese dip, but it’s disappointing.
(more on the jump)
One thing that’s never hit or miss, though, are the burgers. Good meaty burgers that can stand their own with those from Arkansas Burger Company, Cothams, and more. And the Ribeye Steak ($16.79) is a 16 ounce offering to the meat deities… just enough char to induce thoughts of sweating over a backyard grill in the sunshine, without breaking a sweat.
One more thing. There’s dessert. You’re going to win with the Brownie Sundae ($5.99) all the way around, no doubt about it. And the Apple Pie ($3.99) is something wonderful. But if you’re going to dress up your pie, I’d suggest going one way or another -- Cheddar cheese OR ice cream. Because the two together? Well, my suggestion is not to repeat my mistake. I still don’t know what I was thinking.
Both locations are open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday - Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The Bowman road location is bigger, but they both do takeout. (501) 296-9535 for the Rebsamen Park Road location and (501) 224-0012 for the Bowman Road store.