by Kat Robinson
I like cheese in all its luxurious variations -- Cheddar, Brie, Blue, Feta... good nacho cheese like Stoby's or Mexico Chiquito, good baked macaroni and cheese I make during the holidays, good cheese-stuffed ravioli when I'm in St. Louis and those Cigar Pastries stuffed with white cheeses at Istanbul Mediterranean Cuisine. I just like cheese.
I also like variations on Oriental food -- but for the most part there's no cheese involved (unless you count what my husband calls the "Island of Cheese" over at Panda Garden -- an entire buffet bar full of cheese-coated oysters, mushrooms, pizza, potatoes, and Crab au Gratin). But outside of the occasional Philadelphia Roll at one of the local Japanese restaurants, the whole Oriental cheese experience is limited to the humble crab wonton. These sometimes triangular, sometimes pouch-shaped wonders often include no crab at all -- but they do contain cream cheese, and I will usually nibble away happily at them until my real dish arrives.
The best crab wontons I have discovered so far have been the overstuffed housemade triangles at Taste of D'Light in Bryant. These fist-sized wontons are packed impossibly full of savory cheese and crab bits along with a little crispy onion. It's their size, though, that is truly impressive. They're a bit of an appetite buster.
I've had some around here that are very sweet -- such as those from New China Taste. Pei Wei tends to leave theirs on the unsweet side. I like the ones you used to get from Chi's before it became a Dim Sum Bistro (haven't tried them since).
So, what's your favorite wonton?