by Kat Robinson
First off, might I just say that I find it incredibly odd that there are three -- THREE -- eateries in the River Market with the first name "flying." There you go.
But with Lent just days away, it's time to start thinking fish. And The Flying Fish has it -- fried catfish, grilled tilapia, grilled salmon, fried oysters, fried shrimp -- lots of different seafood choices on one big standard menu above the counter.
I've been before -- to the location in Memphis, strangely enough, but not here. But I walked in on a Saturday and stood in line patiently -- a line of a couple dozen patrons. The line flies... I was at the front in less than five minutes, and 30 seconds later had been dispersed with empty cup for beverage and pager. Five minutes after that, and I had my food and started searching for a spot.
Instead of the catfish or fish tacos I so love (especially with pickled green tomatoes) I decided to try fried oysters and something taped up to the wall -- grilled squash and zucchini. I mean, the suggestion, not the actual vegetables. The oysters? Everything I expected, good and juicy with a crispy batter coating. The fries with the basket were adequate, but the hush puppies were outstanding, small and firm and sweet with bits of onion. The veggies? Well, while they were firm and crispy, they were way on the salty side. Good, but... yeah, I wouldn't put that much salt on at home.
Gotta love the accoutrements on the table, though -- saltine crackers, four different types of hot sauce, Worchestershire... and paper towels. Lots of ways to change that flavor.
The Flying Fish, by the way, is across the street from the Museum of Discovery... open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week. Never had dessert there, but they do have a rather large 18 ounce dessert-like frozen Margarita for eight bucks. I'll stick with my iced tea. Menu available on the website.