It’s all over but the crying: The original Sim’s is gone. That ramshackle, cinder block dive — with its bullet-hole scarred-door, Kings of Africa poster on the wall and jukebox chock full of all the latest ’80s soul — that’d been servin’ up the tastiest ribs and coldest 40s in town since 1937 (!) shut its doors forever in December. But as much as we’d become accustomed to all the particularities of that space, we follow the ’cue. Twice now, we’ve traveled south on Broadway —the old route to the original — only to stop short at the corner of Broadway and Roosevelt, where Sim’s has set up shop in the corner of a strip mall in an old Movie Gallery store. It’s about what you’d expect: a big open space, maybe three times the size of the old spot, with fluorescent lighting, shiny linoleum and bright, uncluttered white walls. For the nostalgic, there’s a small, partitioned-off section, where the old tables and chairs and posters have been collected. It’s the “old section,” we were told. Thankfully, there’s no new wrinkles in the barbecue. It still comes slathered in that strange and delicious vinegar-mustard-brown sugar sauce and heaping. According to our waitress, however, there’s new demand. On a recent Friday a little after 8, the ribs were gone and she encouraged us to order quickly before other meats disappeared. That’s been typical in these early day. So don’t dawdle. 2415 Broadway, 372-6868. Beer. CC $-$$ LD Mon.-Sat.