by Max Brantley
... it's still a doughnut.
Is there a culture without a fried dough treat?
The beignet for the French.
The schmalznudel for the German.
The churro for the Spanish.
Fry bread for Native Americans.
The doughnuts for you know who.
In Amsterdam, particularly at the Christmas season, it's the oliebollen, sometimes studded with bits of fruit and sold fresh at stands all over town.