by Max Brantley
This will not stand.
I visited the Buffalo Grill in Riverdale last night to pick up the family's standing to-go order, a grilled tuna platter and the tortilla flat.
I first got a warning.
The tortilla flat has been changed. No longer do they heap cheddar cheese atop the mound of chips, chili, onions, tomato, olives, jalapenos and lettuce, then run it under a broiler for a melted cheese cap.
No. Instead, they give you a cup of cheese dip to pour over the top as you choose.
This is NOT a tortilla flats, perhaps the defining dish at Buffalo Grill, the thing that set it apart from every other restaurant in town. It is just a taco salad, or cheese dip on top of salad.
Nacho lovers will be sorry to learn the same routine applies. No more cheese-topped chips melted under a broiler. It gets the cup-of-dip treatment, too. (Nothing wrong with the Grill's dip, but it's not the same in this application.)
Explanation: The salamander, or the wall-mounted broiler in which the dishes were finished, is on its way out to make room for some new equipment. They're apparently thinking of adding fried catfish.
You can get catfish hundreds of places. Until recently, you could get the tortilla flats only at Buffalo Grill. No more. (This change is coming at the Bowman Road location, too.)
The end of family life as we knew it.