Since the eat-in Mexico Chiquito closed in Lakewood some years back, we’ve often been heard to lament the old girl — storied Mexican joint of our troubled youth. More than one of our best memories as a kid originates there, us nursing a glass of their syrupy, neon-red punch, waiting with the family for our steaming plates to arrive. Imagine, then, how excited we were when we saw the new sit-down (albeit much smaller) Chiquito going up in West Little Rock, on Cantrell Road. Sadly, you can’t go home again, even when it comes to restaurants. While the punch turned out to be familiar – a stick to your upper lip, pineapple-y concoction that actually makes you thirstier the more you drink of it – that was all that was the same. While some of the flaws can be blamed on new-restaurant jitters, service was slow and lax, and the food was either cold (the cheese dip) or burned to a crisp (the quesadillas) by the time it reached our table. Worst of all, everything was expensive, starting with that glass of punch ($2.25 each), right through the bean-dippy cheese dip ($5.95), all the way down to the two tacos we ordered ala carte to pair with our plate lunch ($2.25 each, for something surpassed in quality by the hard shells found at Taco Bell for .79 cents). In the end, a lunch trip with two adults and one child cost $38.54 before tip. While those prices might be okay if the food was up to snuff, they’re obviously not serving anything good enough to be that dear yet. Full-service restaurants at 4511 Camp Robinson Road, NLR, 1524 W. Main St. Jacksonville and 13924 Cantrell. No alcohol. CC $$ 982-0533 LD daily. Takeout at 102 S. Rodney Parham Road and 11406 W. Markham St.