by Max Brantley
My man, the Leachville Flash, has been to lunch. His report:
This is from Wayne's Fish and Burgers To Go, at 2321 Cedar St., in Little Rock. I call it the Home of the Ten-Pound Plate lunch (possibly an exaggeration, but not much of one) and, alternately, The Mother of All Soul Food Joints.
Golden catfish fillets; red beans and rice, corn on the cob for one plate; a monument-size slab of spicy meat loaf, mashed potatoes and gravy, red beans and rice, and corn on the cob. Fluffy, buttered rolls of Homer-esque size accompany both plates. Also on the menu this particular day: chicken and dressing, yams, greens, cabbage, squash and slabs of cornbread the size of baby brother's head. Homemade desserts include strawberry cake, pecan pie and sweet potato pie.
There are no burgers, and there is no Wayne.
Each plate easily feeds two people, maybe three. Each plate is $6, including tax. This stuff is as good in quality as it is in quantity.
Wayne's is to-go only. Open every day from 11 to 5.
Time for a nap.