by Max Brantley
The Bonefish Grill, a chain seafood restaurant, has opened in the Pleasant Ridge Town Center and we tried it last night. We'll have a full review in the Times later, but it was very satisfying even though we had to wait an hour to get in. (Pretty remarkable how speedily they got us in given the huge crowd. And, you can make reservations, if only we'd thought of it.)
The big draw is the choice of six or more varieties of fresh fish, grilled over wood. (Shown is haddock, Pan Asian style) Salmon, tuna, char, halibut, tilapia and grouper were among the options. Scallops and shrimp were succulent. Crabcakes were more crab than binder.
It was simple, healthy and, in the case of our choices, perfectly done grilled fish. Entrees come with a soup or salad and side dish (garlic mashed potatoes and cheesy potatoes au gratin for the sinful) and run $15 to $20. Not a bad deal at all, served efficiently in a dark but convivial setting.
The bar was so crowded, we began our wait with the electronic pager outside. But then we ambled over to the bar at Crew next door and nabbed some seats for a couple of Stella drafts to while away the wait time. A nice evening out.
Tip: By the time we left a bit after 9 p.m., you could sit right down.