by Max Brantley
But before he gets there, he checks into Craig's in DeValls Bluff for a barbecue pork sandwich.
It was just a lunch stop en route from Louisiana to Memphis, where finding good, cheap barbecue was one of three goals I had set for myself. But thanks to Craig’s I realized cheap was as much a function of the right order as the restaurant. So a pork sandwich, served hot, with slaw, would become my order for the next three days. It never cost me more than $5. Add a bottomless iced tea, some sides even, and I rarely broke $10.
...But to a barbecue amateur like me, culinary differences did not matter quite as much as atmosphere. And Craig’s, an hour and a half outside of Memphis, had set the minimalist bar: if a smoky kitchen, some bare tables and a no-nonsense one-person wait staff would do, why aim higher?
Lots of joints in Memphis reviewed. And other low-cost attractions.