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For Thanksgiving, the New York Times features the ascendancy of the sweet potato. It’s become a staple in healthy diets, a feature in some fancy restaurants and so ubiquitous now in fried form that it is almost becoming a cliche.

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“Sweet potatoes step out from under the marshmallows,” the headline says. And I say the heck with that. I say mush ’em up; mix in eggs, butter, brown sugar, cinnamon and pecans; put ’em in a casserole; smother every exposed inch with mini-marshmallows, and bake until it’s a gooey mess. We polled this issue some years back and I was astounded at the number of people who prefer to omit marshmallows. More for me.

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