by Max Brantley
Enough politics. I'm going to indulge myself.
GOOD FOOD: All the talk of Browning's restaurant lately -- new owners plan some improvements but retention of the time-honored traditions -- was irresistible. I had to drop by the venerable Kavanaugh restaurant for lunch. I swore I was going to have a plate lunch or fried chicken or hamburger. But no. The Saltillo plate siren called yet again. Readers have discussed before love/hate of Browning's. I won't belabor it or argue. Great lunch by my lights. Great service. The warm, fresh old school chips and hot sauce were particularly good.
But here's the really good news. New owner Richard Harrison (Pizza Cafe) says Browning's is very close to adding Cordell's potato salad, chicken salad and roast beef (perfectly seasoned, rare top sirloin) to the offerings, thanks to new co-worker Dean Cline, who owned the late Cordell's. These will be available for takeout, just as they were at Cordell's deli in Riverdale in the old days. Also a French dip sandwich. Can the Cordell's funeral tray be far behind? It's a little embarrassing to say how happy this development makes me. Harrison said Cline turned out about 20 roasts for Little Rock families' Christmas table. Nice idea.