by Max Brantley
This is really an Eat Arkansas entry, but ...
It's Sopranos finale night, not to mention my 57th birthday today. Ellen cooked the fine spice cake you see here with cream cheese/pecan icing.
I made "Ah-beetz" from the Sopranos cookbooke. (Yes, I know. We said it would be baked ziti. Ellen made baked ziti. But we froze it for later in the week. You want the recipe? Let me know and I'll put it on Eat Arkansas. Best baked ziti in the world.)
But behold "Ah-beetz." It's another way of saying Apizza. And it's a thick-crust pizza in the argot of New England Italians. I can tell you this from a few visits to New Haven during my daughter's college years and son's years in Providence. It's a simple crust, with a simple garlic-heavy tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella and grated parmigano-reggiano and lots of Farmer Al's fresh basil, in the sauce and on top. Behold:
UPDATE: The Sopranos sucked. Words fail me. However, the NY Times is much kinder.